Chogolisa (7665m) is one of the most beautiful mountains in Karakoram. It has two summits connected by a long, almost horizontal ridge. Even though Chogolisa is not a rugged mountain, it is rarely climbed or attempted.
After the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1955, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger tried to climb Chogolisa but had to turn back due to bad weather. On the way down, Hermann Buhl stepped on a cornice and fell to his death. He has never been found.
The first ascent of the North-East summit (7654m) was made by a Japanese expedition in 1958. The South-West Summit (7665m) was first reached by the Austrians G. Ammerer and F. Pressl in 1975.

Departure/Return Location Islamabad International Airport, Islamabad
Departure Time Mountain Range: Karakoram
Elevation: 7665m Best Time: Mid-May to End-August
Duration: 45 Days Zone: Permitted

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Day

01: Arrival Islamabad

arrival at the airport and then transfer to hotel. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Day

02: Islamabad to Skardu (By Air)

Early morning flight to Skardu (flights are subject to weather). If unable to fly, we will depart for Skardu by road with an overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Day

03: Chilas to Skardu

In case of flight has operated, we will go for a sightseeing tour of Skardu, and in case of no flight, the day will be used for overland travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive is 22 – 24 hrs from Islamabad to Skardu). Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Day

04: Rest day at Skardu

Sight seen in Skardu final packing for the Expedition.
Day

05: Skardu to Askole

After Breakfast, we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole – The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. (Tent)
Day

06: Askole to Jhula

Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula (Jhula means wire Rope-Bridge supported by a wooden basket); now a day wooden bridge has been built to cross it. (Tent)
Day

07: Jhula to Paiju

We will resume Trek along the BralduRiver to a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. (Tent)
Day

08: Rest Day at Paiju

Rest & acclimatization day at Paiju.(Tent)
Day

09: Paiju to Urdukas

Begin the Trek after an early breakfast. (Tent)
Day

10: Urdukas to Goro II

A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. (Tent)
Day

Day 11: Goro II to Concordia

After an early breakfast, we will resume a long walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia – a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters. (Tent)
Day

12: Concordia to Chogholisa Base camp

After Breakfast then trek to Chogholisa  Base camp (Tent)
Day

13 to 36: Climbing Activities

We have 24 days for acclimatization and for scaling the summit. (Tent)
Day

37: Chogholisa Base Camp to Ali Camp

After lunch, we will leave the Chogholisa base camp for Ali Camp. (Tent)
Day

38: Ali Camp – Cross Gondogoro Pass – Khuspang

A very early start, as early as 2 or 3 a.m., to cross the Gondogoro La to reach Khuspang. (Tent)
Day

39: Khuspang to Shaicho

After a couple of minutes of easy walking, we will come onto the glacier. We will pick our way across moving boulders and ice, and finally, crossing the glacier up to the camping site, we will reach Shaicho. Walk: 06 – 07 hrs, Grade: Easy, Altitude: 3800 m. (Tent)
Day

40: Shaicho to Hushe

After Breakfast, we will continue walking along the Hushe River on an easy path. Upon arrival in Hushe, we will camp near the fields in Hushe village. (Tent)
Day

41: Hushe to Skardu

After Breakfast, we will embark on jeeps for a full-day ride on a winding jeep road to Skardu. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel and check in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Day

42: Skardu to Chilas

Early morning drive for Chilas. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel and check in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Chilas.
Day

43: Chilas to Islamabad

After Breakfast, we will depart for Islamabad via the Babusar pass. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Day

44: Islamabad

We will proceed with de-briefing at Alpine Club in Islamabad. Afternoon, we will go for a city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Day

45: Islamabad to Flight out

Transfer to airport for flight back home.

Please Note: Gilgit Baltistan flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.

Services included as following

  • Peak Royalty fees 

Hotels:

  • 03 nights hotel in Islamabad (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
  • 01 night in Panorama Hotel Chilas (Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner)
  • 03 nights in Skardu (Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner)
  • As per itinerary

Transport:                

  • Pick up from group when arrive and drop to the airport when group Departure Air-condition van from Islamabad – Skardu
  • Flight tickets Islamabad-Skardu
  • Arrange transport on briefing and debriefing occasions
  • Sightseeing the capital city of Islamabad

4 X4 Jeeps:

Jeeps

Trekking and Base Camp Food:

Food (during the stay at base camp (we will serve breakfast, lunch, and Dinner)

Porters:

Carry on member’s climbing gear, foodstuff, camping crew, etc., up to base camp and return to the Jeep Roadhead. All porters insurance

Staff: Guide / Cook and assist cook wages, camp food, transport, and insurance

Camping Equipment:

Mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent mattress, chairs, Tables

Kitchen utensils:

Complete kitchen utensils (crockery)

General Services:

  • Tips for baggage handling at airports & hotels
  • Fess: (Bridge crossing, cable crossing, camping)
  • International flights tickets re-confirmations
  • Custom clearing assistance

Services not included in the given price

  • Member international flight tickets
  • Helicopter emergency rescue fees Members any climbing gears
  • Member personal insurance
  • High altitude tent
  • High altitude food
  • High altitude porter
  • Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
  • Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
  • Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipment)
  • EPI gas and oxygen cylinder
  • Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if members stay more days at Base Camp) then members will be paid according to the number of days bases.

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